Snake Pass

Thursday 19th April 2012

Today's continental breakfast was the worst of the trip so far. And the cup of tea I made in the coffee percolator was so disgusting I couldn't drink it. Tomorrow I shall be trying to make tea in the microwave instead.

We'd chosen a few trails to do from the national park map. They describe the trails as either easy, moderate, or difficult. We weren't really sure how to interpret that, as one of the difficult ones was described as impassable without ropes, but then showed a photo of someone rappelling down a rock I could have jumped off backwards with my eyes closed.

Our main destination today was a series of pools called the Emerald Pools. The trails were described as easy to moderate. We took a pack lunch and loads of water (there are taps all over the place near the bus stops to fill bottles from, with signs saying stuff like "you're in the desert, so drink like you are").

We found the trail pretty easy to start with, up to the middle pools. It was so easy that there were children all over the place, some of them in buggies. When we got there, we started clambering over rocks on an unofficial trail which we later named Snake Pass. There seemed to be a path of sorts, so we decided to follow it, assuming it was an alternative, child free route to the top pool.

After about 10 minutes of sweating profusely in the blazing sun, crawling under low rocks and trees, and getting scratched by plants which we hope weren't poison ivy, we decided we were going the wrong way, and to turn back. As we turned round, I spotted a massive snake curled up on a rock right in front of us. Fortunately, it stayed where it was, not even moving when I went a bit closer to look. We made it back to the proper trail and obeyed the KEEP TO THE TRAIL signs after that.
We've been trying to identify the snake. There are a few possibilities, but the one that it looks most like is the Western Rattlesnake. This is the only poisonous snake in the national park! I wish I'd poked it with a stick now, because if we'd seen its tail then we'd know for sure.

So, back on the trail. Hot, sweaty, legs aching from climbing over rocks, and starving hungry. The last uphill section was to the upper pools. The sun seemed to have suddenly become hotter (it was around 80 degrees with no clouds). We found this section much harder than we should have done, probably because of our little diversion up Snake Pass. When we got to the upper pools, it was shaded by the canyon wall. We sat and had lunch dangling our feet in the pool and felt a lot better afterwards.

On the way back down, we spotted some more hummingbirds, which everyone else was oblivious to again. This time, the hummingbird was hovering round flowers and poking its beak in like they do on nature programs. None of them would stay still for long enough for a photo.

We've taken loads of photos, but here are our favourite ones from the day.

When we got back to our hotel, we decided to try the jacuzzi out. It was a slightly surreal experience sitting in an outdoor jacuzzi overlooking a petrol station and a busy cross roads, but it seems quite common for hotel pools to be alongside the road. Aside from the traffic, it was very relaxing.

We've noticed over the last few days a few differences in what we call things. When we bought lunch today, I had to remember to ask for chips not crisps. A walk is called a hike, even if it is just a gentle amble through the park. We name sharp bends after something grannys use to hold their hair up, whereas the Americans make them sound like a weapon by calling them switchbacks.
We are going up a road with a lot of switchbacks tomorrow on our way to what we hope is an easy trail with even more breathtaking views than today. It makes a change to drive on a road with corners on, as you can drive for (literally) miles here without having to turn the steering wheel.

Tomorrow evening we are planning a sunset walk to try and get some good photos.

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Location:Zion National Park